Hiking the Grand Canyon! Well, when you get on in years, you keep thinking about all the things you wanted to do; and you haven't done. When I was in Central High School, I hiked across the Grand Canyon with my biology teacher, Harold Asmussen. I believe that was in 1961. We started on the South Rim, descended on the South Kaibab Trail, stayed at Bright Angel Camp, swam in the Phantom Ranch Pool (which is gone now), and then went on the next day to Cottonwood Camp. The third day we hiked out to the North Rim. That was a three day trip. We started that hike around the 10th of June. I remember then that it was extremely hot (maybe 120+ at the bottom). Plus, we took a fair amount of weight with us (not much ultralight then), and only a quart of water each. Still, the trip was great and one of the high points of high school; now over 40 years ago.  Mr. "A" is gone, and I doubt liability and current teenage discipline would allow such trips today.

I wished to do that nostalgic trip again. I also asked Susie if she thought she could go. She thought she could do it. So, I set about making plans. Previously, I had hiked the John Muir Trail. Using the ultralight techniques pioneered by Ray Jardine, I did that in two weeks. I thought this hike would actually be rather simple. Should the trip be in the springtime or in the fall? The fall is pretty, but I was concerned that the days would be short. Also, how far are you going to hike it? If we left from the North Rim to the South Rim, we would have to get a ride back or hike back. Of course, this appeared to be the same as if you left from the South rim to the North rim and then back again. My high school hike was only one way, because our bus made the 200 mile trip to the North Rim to pick us up. Previously, I talked with the Rangers on the North rim at Jacob Lake about this hike, when I was mountain biking the North rim. The ranger said that going from north to south was easier because the North rim is considerably higher, and it is a downhill hike to Phantom Ranch. The problem is that the North Rim is rather remote to get to, as compared to the South Rim. The decision was made to leave from the South Rim and at least hike up to Cottonwood Camp. From there I could do a day hike to the North Rim and back again, or we could just turn around and go back; as heavy snow could block the north higher trail.

There are millions of people who visit the Grand Canyon yearly, and a fair number of them day hike to the bottom and back up again, which I might mention is extremely discouraged by the Rangers. You need to apply for back country permits for the Central Corridor, which is where we hiked. Camping spaces are limited, and in the Central Corridor, you can only camp in a designated area. The earliest you can apply for a permit is three months in advance. Since we were going for the end of April and first of May, that application timeframe is the first of December or the first of January. Getting a permit did not look promising, but I was pleasantly surprised when a permit was granted to us for the end of April into May. Being semi-retired, the ability to start in midweek makes a real difference.

I told Susie we would go as light as we could. Around 20 pounds. That meant taking our tarp and a minimal amount of necessities. For food I was going to use trail mix, homemade beef jerky, and Bear Valley Pemmican Bars. I was not going to carry a stove. I was also hopeful that we could get meals at Phantom Ranch. I called them, but to no avail. As it turned out, when we got there, there were some last-minute cancellations, which is not unusual. This allowed us to get to breakfast twice and two dinners. This allows you to not have to carry a lot of food, and I recommend it. Besides the passenger mule trip down, I might mention that you can arrange to have your packs carried by mule to Phantom Ranch, and back up again. I would imagine it's very expensive.

We drove down to Arizona, and did look around prior to the hike. I wanted to be at altitude for a day or two. So, a visit was made to the Meteor Crater, as well as down to Sedona. After staying the last night on the rim at the Kachina Lodge, we took the shuttle bus up to the start of the Kaibab Trail. I left the car down by the Bright Angel Trail head, and hid the keys under a rock. We left April 30.

The South Rim at the Kaibab Trail is 7,260 feet. The elevation drop to the river is 4,860 feet. The North Rim, North Kaibab Trail head is 8,250 feet. So, it's like climbing an "upside down mountain". You actually have more air to breathe at the bottom of the Canyon (2,400 feet). Leaving there to hike to the Cottonwood Camp gives you an elevation gain to 4,080 feet. You start high at the Kaibab Trail, descend to the low point at the river, and then gain altitude all the way to the North Rim.

The descent down the Kaibab Trail is gorgeous. It is a steep drop, and there is no water. We took 3 liters each, but only really needed 2. Remember, water weighs about 2.2 pounds per liter. That, plus the food, makes your pack the heaviest it is going to be on the descent -- rough on your knees. There are a couple of solar toilets. After learning from my John Muir hike experience, we took trekking poles. You really need these for descending. Going down the Inner Redwall was a little tough on Susie, but she made it. The weather became very windy, extremely so. At the bottom, at the Bright Angel Campground, things were blowing around. A lot of dust. Mostly we just hung out, and laid in the grass until dinner. After that things did quiet down somewhat, and we were able to put up our camp.

You have to keep everything in supplied old ammunition cans, because the critters (rats, lizards and ringtails mostly) down there will get into everything. You also need to hang your packs off an elevated pole like affair at each campground for the same reason. The campsites are limited, and extremely well used in the "corridor".  A campsite is packed dirt with little vegetation.  Think of it as camping on a packed dirt parking lot.  if you go when it isn't rainy, the lightest way to sleep is on a ground cloth and something like a Thermarest.  Of course, for modesty you might need a tent.  In that case, make sure it is self supporting, as the ground is very difficult for pegs.  I used rocks for the tarp lines, and replaced the rocks when I left.  The rangers either didn't notice, or tolerated the rock use; but it really is illegal to change anything at your campsite, evenly temporarily.  The rangers do check your permits, and record them nightly at Bright Angel Campground.  (No rangers were present at Cottonwood Campground during our time frame.) You do not need a permit if you don't use a campsite.  As one old hiker told me, as long as you keep moving, you are not illegal.  When it got dark, I think he stealth camped by laying just off the trail.  I guess he pushes the envelope on how long a "rest period" is, versus camping.  The rangers do randomly check the main trails at night.  The food at Phantom Ranch is extremely good, and the ranger talks excellent. We were mildly foot sore, but it was obvious that the mule riders were punished by the descent more than us.

The next day we left Phantom Ranch towards the North rim to hike to Cottonwood Camp. The trail runs along Bright Angel Creek Canyon, and is fairly awesome. Just before Cottonwood Camp there is a hanging Canyon with Ribbon Falls. I would recommend lunch there, or at least a stop. Some from the Phantom Ranch will day hike to there.  But that is about 12 miles or so round trip, and a good elevation gain.  When we got to Cottonwood Camp, there was only one other person camping there. A pleasant German fellow.  There was no ranger at the station. The trail north (North Kaibab) was being repaired, as the damaged trail was not passable by mule.  That and the North Rim facilities not being open yet, probably explained the paucity of activity at Cottonwood.  We stayed two nights there. In the morning I left for the North Rim.

Cottonwood Camp has a ranger station, a solar toilet and running water. All the water in the Canyon comes from the Roaring Springs, pouring out of the rock layers part way up to the North Rim. This water is pumped all the way across the Canyon and up to the South Rim.

Susie was alone when I left Cottonwood Camp, but she had a nice sunny day. I took only some food and enough clothes for a day hike in my pack. I visited the pump house caretaker's house on the way up, and saw a couple of guys who were in the trail crews. There is no caretaker now, and the trail crews stay in the house.  The original pump house caretaker raised his family there, as well as did a lot of landscape painting.  The crewman told me they had a nine-day stint for trail work. The trails to the North Rim were washed out, and the usual mule train traffic was gone. The hike to the North Rim is spectacular.  In many places the trail is hacked out of the sheer Inner Redwall, with a steep drop as your reward for a mistake. Trail crews told me of blasting along the trail around noon. As I hiked to the higher elevation of the North Rim, the air became colder (and thinner); and I had to pass frozen waterfalls, as well as large snowdrifts, as I went up. Entering winter as I climbed up to the North Rim.  Finally from the start of the trailhead, I walked up the highway about 2 miles to the North Rim Lodge. This area was all closed (opens May 15), and workmen were putting in new windows in the south side of the lodge. I did get more water at the worker's quarters, and was constantly told that the area was closed. I told them I was just passing through, but I guess they thought I was suspect. There is also a Park Service Visitor Center, and many small cabins which appeared very desirable. A sun porch patio overlooks the North Rim, looking south from the lodge. The building is all stone, and I don't remember any of that from the 60's. My recollection was that it was a white wood sided building. Obviously, that memory was false.

I headed back down just as the blasting was done. I did encounter the mule wranglers, and talked to the dynamite people coming back up. I took a lot of still pictures, as well as carried a small video camera with me. Arrival at Cottonwood Camp was around 4 to 5 o'clock in the afternoon, where I was greeted by Susie. She was worried because I had not come sooner, but the trip is about 18 miles round-trip from Cottonwood Camp to the Lodge and back, not to mention the elevation gain.

After another night at the Cottonwood Camp, we made our way back to Bright Angel Creek Campground for another Phantom Ranch supper and overnight campground stay. Next day we hiked out the Bright Angel Trail toward the South Rim, and stayed at Indian Garden Campground. You can easily do this to the South Rim in a day, but the more sedate route is a lot more fun. The elevation gain is almost a mile.  The Indian Garden Campground is very nice, but well used, like all of the corridor camping areas. You have creek water from the river to Indian Garden.  Good water at Indian Garden, but then no water until the "3 Mile Rest House", if the water pipes aren't broken.

The next day we hiked from Indian Garden to the South Rim, where our car was parked. Then, another night on the South Rim at the Kachina Lodge; and of course, the obligate celebratory dinner at the El Tovar Hotel.  Definitely have an elegant dinner at the El Tovar.

Our hike was a total of six days, a quite leisurely pace. About right for mature folks.  It was a recapitulation of the glory of my former hike, when I was a teenager, and more.  A double Canyon crossing--Rim to Rim to Rim.  I'm glad Susie and I did it, and I would recommend it to anyone.  Just don't do it when the Canyon temperatures are over 100 degrees.

As I hiked, occasionally I dictated into a digital recorder.  If you want to hear the wave files as I dictated them, go to this Daily Journal virtual directory.  Most of it is very mundane.

My gear list was essentially the same as the JMT, with allowances for Susie.  I only used what was in the far right two columns.  Yes, I really do own all that stuff.

Here is a hyperlink for the whole virtual directory of the trip pictures, reduced to under 500K or less.

Move your cursor over the thumbnail pictures below for a caption, click on the thumbnail for a full picture.

I tried to select the best pictures of the trip, but there are hundreds in the virtual directory: