I converted my standard low beam H-7 bulb to a HID (high intensity discharge) unit for more light, less power drain, and longer life. And yes, it looks cool, too.

First, I got the 4300K kit from XenonDepot based on my internet cruising. I got the idea from Web Bike World. I am interested in putting a lot of light out there at night (critters on the road). The 'look' was not the concern as the most light for the power output. I wanted not to tax the alternator too much, because my wife and I tour, and use Gerbing electric clothing. http://www.mikejones.us/motorcycling.htm You will note on the attached pictures that there is also a PIAA installation (1100X) with an AutoSwitch on my bike. Those lights are 55 watts each and are tied into the high beam. My prior 1999 had two 85 watt bulbs. When both of us had the electric clothing on at night, the current draw was too much. I am hoping that this setup is just right. The 2005 LT may have a bigger alternator.

Our current touring bike is a 2005 BMW K-1200 LT. My last one was a 1999 K-1200 LT Custom.

When doing this for you I see the headlight arrangement is changed from '99 to 2005. I can tell from looking at my spare headlight pod. I think the 2005 is where the change occurred as the high and low beams are now separate, and the high beam is 65 watts of H-9 instead of the prior 55 watts for both. I don't know what fuses the '99 used, but my '05 has 7.5 amp minifuses on 2 separate headlight circuits.

I didn't want to burn any bridges...make it reversible. I have done non factory before and gotten into a mess. Sorry, "plug and play" has seldom been the experience for me. I wanted the low beam (which is a H-7) brighter. I didn't see any conversions for the high beam H-9, which is 65 watts.

I have an extra 1999 LT headlight pod because I got a rock chip hole to the front lens. You had to replace the whole unit, like about $400. The new 2005 is plastic. I keep all the old parts around, and in this case helped me with the conversion. The '99 pod door fits the new 2005 headlight pod. I used the old door and kept the new door as a spare. Being able to look at the old pod and decide where to drill was helpful,

I drilled 2 holes in the pod door. A 5/8 inch hole (you got a 23mm drill, Steve?[xenondepot]) for the HID Bulb and a 1/2 inch on for the HID power input. I used a wood drill and drill press to make the holes.

Note on the '99 headlight pod pictures, there is a factory power fitting that might take the HID H-7 input plug in. Those people who have that would only have to drill one hole, if you can plug the HID into the wiring going into the pod. From the picture you can see there are 3 wires though, so I expect the high and low beams are both there. Then you probably would lose the high beam if you used that factory wiring to the HID. Maybe the three way wouldn't work, or you would have to rewire the whole thing.

Anyway, my 2005 has a completely separate, overdone, Teutonic plug-in fitting that is grommet sealed with a spring loaded keeper on it...the H-7 input from the HID kit will not fit into the wiring harness plug. I took the factory pod power input fitting off to look at it after I removed the left side fairing on the LT for exposure. That in itself is a job.

If you can work in tight places and see up close...a problem for us old guys, I don't think you would have to remove the fairing. Especially so now that I can tell you what is up there.

So, I took the door off the headlight pod, and could see that there is enough space inside the pod for the fittings to come through the drilled holes. The HID bulb was drilled on one side and the H-7 input connector on the other. The white dots on the picture show where. The holes need to be above where the wire closer and tensioner snaps into place, and to either side of the back of the headlight reflector for enough space.

Try to put the hole for the HID power input close to the standard H-7 bulb plug wires. I didn't, and the H-7 plug wires were a little tightly stretched...but it did reach. Note on the old LT pod picture prior to 2005 that the factory input fitting is on the left side. My 2005 factory power input into the pod is now on the right.

The 2005 pod cover has a 'boss' on the left side while the old '99 cover was smooth.

The grommet on the HID bulb wiring seals the hole fine. You have to massage the hole a little with a round file where the connectors go through, but the installation was easy.

I used a small screwdriver, bent the retaining metal back, and released the pins from the HID kit plastic power input fitting. I drilled the 1/2 hole, put the wiring through the hole in the pod cover, and replaced the plastic H-7 fitting on the pins.

I used an automotive grommet similar to the black one next to the pod cover in the picture. I think it was a green grommet for control rod linkage. The one pictured is a PCV grommet. I also put 2 small zip ties on each side of the cover and some silicone as the grommet was slightly loose, and I wanted a strong, water tight seal.

There is enough wiring to allow you to replace the standard H-7 bulb with the HID bulb, and hold it with the factory wire keepers in the headlight pod. Then you plug in the factory H-7 bulb plug into the HID input fitting, gently stuff it all into the pod and replace the door. Snap the wire pod door keeper up and you're done.

The LT has an "X" frame just below the headlight pod. I used the doubled sided tape and heavy zip ties to hold the HID boxes up on top of it. Nothing comes anywhere near the fork and there is room up there for a box on each side of the "X" arms.

The wire looms were looped back and forth a few times and zip tied to the same place.

You need to find the fuse box under the seat. Take out the 7.5 amp fuse (unless you want to try it and burn it out first, like I did) and replace it with the 10 amp fuse.  I haven't blown out the 10 amp, and after 5 thousand miles the wiring is apparently okay.

That's it.

Looking at the bike and except for the PIAAs, it looks stock, until you turn the power on! Plenty of good light. The BMW has a knob to raise or lower the headlight beam. I was able to aim the beam to keep the oncoming cars happy.  At night with everything on, I can really see what's out there, on both sides of the road.  So the extra lighting is worth it to me.  I don't like to run at night, but it happens.  The light won't stop a deer, but you can sure see 'em out there!


This worked very well for me, but I can't guarantee it will work for you, ruin your bike, or even if it is legal.


Picture Gallery with Explanation Captions:
 

horizontal rule

 

2005 BMW K-1200 LT

2005 BMW K-1200 LT

11 am, daylight with no clouds. The HID headlight is on. The other lights below the headlight are factory running lights.

2005 BMW K-1200 LT

PIAA 1100X lamps also installed, but not lit.

2005 BMW K-1200 LT

Early morning with available light.

2005 BMW K-1200 LT

Early morning with available light. The lighted lights under the HID low beam are stock.

1999 K-1200 LT Headlight Pod, Seen From the Back.

The pod is sealed with a grommeted door, and wire keeper. The white disc shows the factory power plug in on the left. It is on the right in the 2005 module, and a different fitting.

1999 K-1200 LT Headlight Pod, Seen From the Back, Cover Off.

'99s have both bulbs in the pod. The yellow & brown wired fitting plugs into the HID conversion power socket for the low beam in the 2005 model.

1999 K-1200 LT Headlight Pod, Factory Power Input.

The left sided pod has 3 prongs, that would fit the HID H-7 power input plug...but probably would disable some headlight or more. I ran both cables through the cover.

2005 K-1200 LT Headlight Pod Cover.

The '99 is without the "boss" seen in the upper left, and the cover is smooth here.

2005 K-1200 LT Headlight Pod Cover.

White dots show drill points for wiring cable inputs. Don't drill center, to either side has room for wiring and fittings. Drill ABOVE the snap-ins for the wire keeper.

2005 K-1200 LT Headlight Pod Cover.

Typical PCV grommet you can use. The HID bulb has an integral grommet on the wiring.

Pod Door with Wire keeper and Input Wiring.

Left green grommet is HID power wire, right black double wires are to the HID bulb. Aluminum case to right above the zip tied extra wiring is a ballast box zip tied to the frame. The white thing to the left is the 2005 high beam pod.

Pod Door with Wire keeper and Input Wiring.

Left green grommet is HID power wire, right black double wires are to the HID bulb. The white thing to the left is the 2005 separate high beam pod. Center zip tie is holding the HID bulb connectors. Behind zip tie left is the small black HID ignitor/ballast box on top of the motorcycle frame.

Pod Door with Wire keeper and Input Wiring.

Left of center is the HID bulb wires coming from the cover. Note they are ABOVE the wire keeper. Aluminum ballast box to the right on top of frame member, cabling zipped beneath.

Pod Door with Wire keeper and Input Wiring.

Left of center is the HID bulb wires coming from the cover. Note they are ABOVE the wire keeper. Aluminum ballast box to the right on top of frame member, cabling zipped beneath. Right lower black box is the horn.

Pod Door with Wire keeper and Input Wiring.

Distant view up into the bike. Fender is left, high beam pod center left, horn center right, one PIAA light lower right. The looped, zip tied cables & pod are center. The red wire is a tap for the PIAA lights. The center blue&red wires are to the HID bulb connectors.

Fuse Boxes Under Seat.

The fuse box to the left houses the low beam fuse.

Fuse Boxes Under Seat.

Replace the 7.5 amp fuse with a 10 amp. The BMW booklet lists the fuse placement to the lights.

Minifuses.

This 7.5 amp is standard. After blowing it, I replaced it with the 10 amp without apparent ill effects.

Good Luck to You!  Ride Safe!

 

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