I converted my standard low beam H-7 bulb to a HID (high intensity discharge)
unit for more light, less power drain, and longer life. And yes, it looks cool,
too.
First, I got the 4300K kit from XenonDepot
based on my internet cruising. I got the idea from
Web Bike World. I am interested in putting
a lot of light out there at night (critters on the road). The 'look' was not the
concern as the most light for the power output. I wanted not to tax the
alternator too much, because my wife and I tour, and use
Gerbing electric
clothing.
http://www.mikejones.us/motorcycling.htm You will note on the attached
pictures that there is also a
PIAA
installation (1100X) with an
AutoSwitch on my bike. Those lights are 55 watts each and are tied into the
high beam. My prior 1999 had two 85 watt bulbs. When both of us had the electric
clothing on at night, the current draw was too much. I am hoping that this setup
is just right. The 2005 LT may have a bigger alternator.
Our current touring bike is a 2005 BMW K-1200 LT. My last one was a 1999 K-1200
LT Custom.
When doing this for you I see the headlight arrangement is changed from '99 to
2005. I can tell from looking at my spare headlight pod. I think the 2005 is
where the change occurred as the high and low beams are now separate, and the
high beam is 65 watts of H-9 instead of the prior 55 watts for both. I don't
know what fuses the '99 used, but my '05 has 7.5 amp minifuses on 2 separate
headlight circuits.
I didn't want to burn any bridges...make it reversible. I have done non factory
before and gotten into a mess. Sorry, "plug and play" has seldom been the
experience for me. I wanted the low beam (which is a H-7) brighter. I didn't see
any conversions for the high beam H-9, which is 65 watts.
I have an extra 1999 LT headlight pod because I got a rock chip hole to the
front lens. You had to replace the whole unit, like about $400. The new 2005 is
plastic. I keep all the old parts around, and in this case helped me with the
conversion. The '99 pod door fits the new 2005 headlight pod. I used the old
door and kept the new door as a spare. Being able to look at the old pod and
decide where to drill was helpful,
I drilled 2 holes in the pod door. A 5/8 inch hole (you got a 23mm drill,
Steve?[xenondepot]) for the HID Bulb and a 1/2 inch on for the HID power input.
I used a wood drill and drill press to make the holes.
Note on the '99 headlight pod pictures, there is a factory power fitting that
might take the HID H-7 input plug in. Those people who have that would only have
to drill one hole, if you can plug the HID into the wiring going into the pod.
From the picture you can see there are 3 wires though, so I expect the high and
low beams are both there. Then you probably would lose the high beam if you used
that factory wiring to the HID. Maybe the three way wouldn't work, or you would
have to rewire the whole thing.
Anyway, my 2005 has a completely separate, overdone, Teutonic plug-in fitting
that is grommet sealed with a spring loaded keeper on it...the H-7 input from
the HID kit will not fit into the wiring harness plug. I took the factory pod
power input fitting off to look at it after I removed the left side fairing on
the LT for exposure. That in itself is a job.
If you can work in tight places and see up close...a problem for us old guys, I
don't think you would have to remove the fairing. Especially so now that I can
tell you what is up there.
So, I took the door off the headlight pod, and could see that there is enough
space inside the pod for the fittings to come through the drilled holes. The HID
bulb was drilled on one side and the H-7 input connector on the other. The white
dots on the picture show where. The holes need to be above where the wire closer
and tensioner snaps into place, and to either side of the back of the headlight
reflector for enough space.
Try to put the hole for the HID power input close to the standard H-7 bulb plug
wires. I didn't, and the H-7 plug wires were a little tightly stretched...but it
did reach. Note on the old LT pod picture prior to 2005 that the factory input
fitting is on the left side. My 2005 factory power input into the pod is now on
the right.
The 2005 pod cover has a 'boss' on the left side while the old '99 cover was
smooth.
The grommet on the HID bulb wiring seals the hole fine. You have to massage the
hole a little with a round file where the connectors go through, but the
installation was easy.
I used a small screwdriver, bent the retaining metal back, and released the pins
from the HID kit plastic power input fitting. I drilled the 1/2 hole, put the
wiring through the hole in the pod cover, and replaced the plastic H-7 fitting
on the pins.
I used an automotive grommet similar to the black one next to the pod cover in
the picture. I think it was a green grommet for control rod linkage. The one
pictured is a PCV grommet. I also put 2 small zip ties on each side of the cover
and some silicone as the grommet was slightly loose, and I wanted a strong,
water tight seal.
There is enough wiring to allow you to replace the standard H-7 bulb with the
HID bulb, and hold it with the factory wire keepers in the headlight pod. Then
you plug in the factory H-7 bulb plug into the HID input fitting, gently stuff
it all into the pod and replace the door. Snap the wire pod door keeper up and
you're done.
The LT has an "X" frame just below the headlight pod. I used the doubled sided
tape and heavy zip ties to hold the HID boxes up on top of it. Nothing comes
anywhere near the fork and there is room up there for a box on each side of the
"X" arms.
The wire looms were looped back and forth a few times and zip tied to the same
place.
You need to find the fuse box under the seat. Take out the 7.5 amp fuse (unless
you want to try it and burn it out first, like I did) and replace it with the 10
amp fuse. I haven't blown out the 10 amp, and after 5 thousand miles the
wiring is apparently okay.
That's it.
Looking at the bike and except for the PIAAs, it looks stock, until you turn the
power on! Plenty of good light. The BMW has a knob to raise or lower the
headlight beam. I was able to aim the beam to keep the oncoming
cars happy. At night with everything on, I can really see what's out
there, on both sides of the road. So the extra lighting is worth it to me.
I don't like to run at night, but it happens. The light won't stop a deer,
but you can sure see 'em out there!
This worked very well for me, but I can't guarantee it will work for you, ruin your bike,
or even if it is legal.
Picture Gallery with Explanation Captions:
![]()
Good Luck to You! Ride Safe!